journey here to there
XAIPETE NIKΩMEN
In July and Aug. '07 I was solo-trekking in Lapland, Sweden. With a start inside the Arctic Circle, I had a fantastic hike. A local newspaper published reports I sent in whenever I reached civilization (such as it was) about once a week. The reports are several pages when assembled and way too long to post on a website, but here are some of the highlights:
I climbed a lot of mountains and probably as many hills with a 40 lb. pack. It was new experience for me - that pack. By the end of my 3 weeks on foot, I was as used to such a thing as a human can be. I feel sorry for mules and horses. Altogether I covered 150-200 miles. I had planned on completing the entirety of the Kungsleden, but after meeting a man who has hiked it for 45+ years I changed my mind. There is a stretch between Kvikkjokk and Ammarnas that is not maintained by the STF and my new friend described it as "dire." Hmmm...I'd already been shoulder deep in a white water river fed by snow melt and the idea of dire wasn't so very inspiring. I also battled numerous bugs. If they bit, they found me a new delicacy and feasted with abandon. The unsupported stretch of the trail is all forest. It is full of bugs.
When I started I knew this trip would be about adapability. It was not so very difficult to say, "I'll skip the dire stretches. Why do that to myself?" There were still plenty of challenges and such a journey should have some pleasure in it. The goal is to survive after all.
I met several lovely people. The landscape in the far northern stretch is stark and wild and vast. It is gentler in the southern leg - greener, with less severe hills. I completed four of the five "parts" of the Kungsleden with a little twist of my own. I did not hike in and back out of Kebnekaisse. My first leg was Abisko to Singi. Then without a break or extra day, leg two was Singi to Vakkotavare. It was during these kilometers that I took my unexpected dunk into the river. I managed to rescue myself, and was happy for my tent as it provided me immediate shelter and with my sleeping bag - warmth. I hiked the next day in wet clothes and boots, but I also hiked at 5 a.m. and the world was mine.
The third part of the adventure on the ground was Saltoluokta to Kvikkjokk. This was my least favorite stretch. Very buggy. Not so interesting. But still of value. I met three very dear men, all in their 70s, who on the day when I hiked 9 hours (6 of them in the rain) cooked me tortellini and with freshly picked mushrooms. They were generous and kind and took care of me in my lowest moment. They are treasures in my memory and my heart. Thank you, Bo, Sven and Gunnar. Many blessings to you!
After Kvikkjokk I took a bus to the little town of Jokkmokk. The next day I once more traveled by bus to arrive at Ammarnas and the final installment of my hike. The last days were most precious to me as I walked alone. I camped one night, and utilized the huts a couple of others. By this time I was really in my zone and feeling quite good each day. The weather was hot two days, cold and wet and fierce the third, cloudy the fourth. I made such good time that I finished a day and a half ahead of schedule. I found laughing at each new hill helpful. After all, they brought me to vistas of incredible beauty. There is great joy to be found in standing atop a hill just climbed and looking at the trail as it undulates across the landscape for miles ahead.
I have had many adventures, large and small. Reindeer have crossed my path, I have bathed in a snow-fed stream just below a waterfall. There's been much laughter, even more wonder, and once - tears. Yes, there was such a low moment, but I rebounded quickly and did not succumb to the desire to quit. I am so glad I didn't.
There are many stories that deserve telling and I'm sure that will come with time. For those of you who have been awaiting news: I survived! And I had a great time doing so. I've been home a week and am not yet fully caught up in sleep. My studio is strewn with gear that needs airing out and sorting. It is good to be home, and yet today I was almost overwhelmed by my own photos such as I have. The camera didn't fare well in the river dunking! I didn't lose the 200+ photos taken before my watery encounter and have selected 48 to share with you here. Some have captions as they have particular importance to me. The others I will leave for you to simply enjoy. Such a journey as I have had takes some time to absorb. Seeing these pictures I immediately wanted to return and armed with first-hand experience and a little wisdom do it again. Some day perhaps.
For now, I will look at my photos and work a bit each day to organize the gear and my thoughts. I will conclude with a brief but accurate thought: "It was a really good walk!"
Special thanks to Humm Foods and Larabar. As an athlete who is never going to make a tdime in prize money, finding sponsorship for my trip was pretty much impossible. After all, walking is a humble sport and I'm not so young or so fast. I am a fan of Larabars, though, and was generously sponsored in the form of two boxes of bars. It may not sound like much to you, but when I needed a boost or was a little down, my comfort food was always a Larabar. Those two boxes of bars (I think the total count was 48 but might have been more) carried me through many a weary moment. It's simply hard to beat sitting on a "good" rock, eating something that not only gave me energy but comfort. Though my donated supply is now gone, I know where to buy them and I continue to take Larabars hiking with me, and don't plan to stop. If you haven't had a Larabar, you need to.
XAIPETE NIKΩMEN (c)2005 Here to There, LLC